Since the early 70s when the likes of Gerry Lopez & other pioneering surfers discovered the wonders of Bali, the lush wave garden has become a milestone expedition for watermen the world over. After saving up enough shillings from a summer job at the Turtle Bay Resort's JOB Surf Camp on the North Shore, Test Pilot Maddix Alotis made the pilgrimage. Below is his field notes from a month around the Bukit.
“Some might say growing up on the North Shore creates a very well rounded surfer. I back that, I felt super comfortable in Indo because the waves at home are much more raw and powerful. Hawaii is in the middle of the Pacific so we have nothing blocking us which creates much faster powerful waves than Indo. But make no mistake, Indo is definitely dangerous with how shallow and sharp the reef is. Something that really scares me out there is how big the tide changes are – the currents are insane. The biggest surprises about Bali? How good the food was for the price! And it was just amazing to see how many people there were condensed into one spot. That’s why I found myself traveling to places like Sumbawa and Lombok – places with more waves than people.”
ON GOALS & WORK TO DO
“As a surfer we are always working to be better. I would like to work on on being a well-rounded surfer but everyone has a strong suit so you’ll find me mainly focusing on big barrels. My goal for this trip to Indonesia was to get as tubed as I possibly could. But there are always times where the waves are small, and it’s time to work on the rail and air game.”
“This trip I tested the Hooded Rashguard nearly every session. If I didn’t have that, there would be no way my skin could have handled the harsh UV.”
“This year I am aspiring to get the best wave of my life! Also creating better and better content through out my year.”
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Watch the visual account of Maddix’s trip below.